Staff stories: An African adventure with Wendy Wu Tours and Rovos Rail

Last month, I, along with three of my colleagues, was given the incredible opportunity to travel to Africa with Wendy Wu Tours to experience the inimitable Rovos Rail. The 4-night itinerary was combined with stays in Cape Town, Pretoria and Victoria Falls - a truly once-in-a-lifetime trip! Read all about it here: 

Upon arrival in Cape Town, we were met by Lizwe and Chrisna, our tour guides for the next few days. We would soon learn that our wish was Lizwe and Chrisna’s command! They did everything to make sure our time in Cape Town was as special as could be, and that started with an unplanned trip to Boulders Beach in Simon’s Town to meet the locals. The locals being hundreds and hundreds of African penguins. 

Boulders Beach is a serene escape characterised by sheltered coves, soft white sand and, unexpectedly, a thriving colony of African penguins. The beach, with its massive granite boulders providing the backdrop, is a unique conservation area for these penguins, who were once widespread along the South African coast. It was fascinating to watch them as they waddled around their natural habitat, chatting away with each other and posing for photos for their visitors.  

For our first evening in Africa, we headed to Belthazar for dinner. Situated on the V&A Waterfront, Belthazar is a restaurant and wine bar famous for its extensive range of fine wines. Here, I enjoyed many glasses of Shiraz and the finest fillet steak I’ve ever had. 

On day two, the enjoyment of wine continued. We started off with a buffet breakfast at our hotel, the Radisson Blu Hotel Waterfront, before making our way to Bloemendal for a wine and ice cream pairing. Sounds like a strange combination, right? But it worked! The sauvignon blanc was paired with granadilla-flavoured ice cream, the rosé with Turkish delight and the pinotage with coffee and chocolate.

After, it was time to soak up some of that wine with a delicious lunch at Boschendal. With its majestic backdrop of sweeping mountain ranges, Boschendal is situated between Cape Town and the verdant expanse of the Cape Winelands. The iconic estate offers a unique blend of exceptional wine, eco-friendly agriculture and preserved history. Lunch was followed by our second wine tasting of the day. This time, we enjoyed three white wines; a sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc and Chardonnay and three red wines; a merlot, shiraz and Pinotage. 

As if that wasn’t enough, our third and final stop was for wine blending at Middlevlei, a hidden gem in the heart of Cape Town’s picturesque wine country that invites visitors to step into a world where traditional winemaking converges with a sense of familial warmth and dedication to environmental harmony. It exudes a rustic charm, offering an authentic, intimate experience steeped in the love of the land and its bounty. As you can imagine, four giddy girls being left to their own wine-blending devices made for a chaotic experience. I’m yet to try my blend, but I don’t have much faith in it when I do! 

To round off a fantastic first day, we headed to Mojo Market for a quick Savannah before dinner at Bobo’s. 

Sadly, during our time in Cape Town, the capital was hit by a storm which brought with it unseasonably low temperatures. We bore witness to the power of the Atlantic Ocean and how much damage and destruction it can cause. It meant that we weren’t able to enjoy the day we had originally planned, but we didn’t let it dampen our spirits! Instead, we drove to Bo-Kaap, a vibrant enclave nestled on the slopes of Signal Hill that boasts a kaleidoscope of history, culture and resilience. With its brightly painted houses and cobbled streets, Bo-Kaap is a poignant symbol of the city’s diverse cultural fabric and complex past. 

As it wasn’t safe for us to see Cape Town from above on the Table Mountain Aerial Cableway (there were weather warnings, after all), Lizwe was keen to get us as close to one of the oldest mountains in the world as possible. So, we embarked on a slow but steady drive to the highest point we could reach. Table Mountain, which is estimated to have formed around 280 million years ago, is known for its extraordinarily rich, diverse and unique flora. It supports over 1,500 species of plants (more than the entire United Kingdom!), many of which are endemic and found nowhere else on Earth. The mountain is mainly composed of sandstone and is notable for its flat-topped structure, which makes it a unique sight and provides a dramatic backdrop to Cape Town. 

After lunch at Yumcious Cafe, we spent some time at the Castle of Good Hope, which felt very poignant the day after Heritage Day. The Castle of Good Hope, an enduring monument seeped in history, stands as the oldest surviving colonial building in South Africa. Once a symbol of colonial oppression, this bastion of history now serves as a reminder of the resilience of the human spirit and the rich, multifaceted tapestry that is South African heritage. 

For our final evening in Cape Town, we visited GOLD Restaurant for an extraordinary 14-course dinner. GOLD Restaurant is not just a place to dine, though, it’s an immersive experience that sweeps you across the African continent through its rich flavours, vibrant rhythms and dynamic atmosphere. And from the moment you step foot in the building, the journey begins. While eating, guests are serenaded with live djembe drumming sessions, creating an irresistible beat that gets everyone tapping their feet. The rhythm escalates as the evening progresses, with performances from traditionally attired Mali Puppets, dancers showcasing Africa’s diverse dance style and singers serenading diners with melodies from across the continent. It’s an incredibly special experience and one I’ll never forget. 

This morning, we flew from Cape Town to the City of Gold, Johannesburg. Sadly, our time with Lizwe had come to an end, but we were now in the capable hands of Ryan, who would be our guide for the day. Ryan took us straight to Soweto, which was initially established as a township by the apartheid government. An abbreviation for South Western Townships, Soweto has since evolved into a symbol of resistance, freedom and vibrant social change. We spent a few hours wandering around this sprawling urban settlement, stopping off at the famous Vilakazi Street, the only street in the world where two Nobel Prize winners, Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu, have lived. We even received a guided tour of Mandela House, a national monument dedicated to offering insight into the life of Nelson Mandela and his family. 

Following lunch at Sakhzumi, we travelled to Pretoria where we would be staying for the night before embarking on our next adventure. During our dinner at Tasha’s, we spoke of our excitement for the next few days aboard Rovos Rail. 

Today was the day - the countdown to embarking Rovos Rail was over! 

But first, we spent the morning at The Union Buildings Public Gardens, which are set against the remarkable backdrop of Pretoria’s Union Buildings. The gardens are spread over sprawling terraces, offering a tranquil green oasis amidst the city’s governmental bustle. Beyond their natural beauty, the gardens hold profound historical significance - they’ve witnessed numerous pivotal events in South African history, including the inauguration of Nelson Mandela in 1994. In fact, one of the most striking features of the gardens is the 9-metre bronze statue of Nelson Mandela, with arms outstretched, symbolising unity and progress. 

Then, it was time to transfer to Rovos Rail Station. Upon arrival, we were greeted by champagne (the best way to be greeted, in my opinion) and an excitement so palpable from our fellow travellers that we felt giddy! 

Rovos Rail Station stands as a portal to a bygone era, exuding an elegance and grandeur that harks back to the golden age of travel. From the moment you step foot in the station, the Rovos Rail experience begins. The gardens surrounding the property create an oasis of calm, preparing you for the serene journey ahead. The platform itself, with its classic gas lamps, teak benches and historical memorabilia, immerses you in a world that pays homage to the romanticism of early 20th-century train travel.

And then there’s the station tour, hosted by Rohan Vos, founder of Rovos Rail. Rohan, with his charismatic persona, welcomes every guest with the warmth reserved for old friends. His passion is palpable, adding a deeply personal touch that standard tours simply cannot replicate. As you meander through the station, Rohan regales with tales that are as much a chronicle of his personal journey as they are the history of Rovos Rail. Every artefact, from the gleaming locomotives to the meticulously restored carriages, has a story and no one tells it better than the man whose vision brought it all to life. 

All aboard! At 6:00 p.m., it was time to depart Rovos Rail Station. With dinner served at 7:30 p.m., we had a couple of hours to freshen up and familiarise ourselves with our Deluxe Suite. We enjoyed dinner, which was an incredible four-course feast, in the Banquette Dining Car before wobbly (due to the train tracks, not the alcohol, promise!) making our way to the Lounge Car for a nightcap. 

Our first day aboard Rovos Rail was a day spent at leisure. As breakfast was served in the dining cars, the train crossed the Tropic of Capricorn en route to Louis Trichardt. While we enjoyed afternoon tea in the Observation Car, the train crossed the Limpopo River en route to Beitbridge and we witnessed the landscapes dramatically change. And by dinner, we were en route to Gwanda. In between all the eating, we spent our time watching the world go by and dipping in and out of reading our books. 

Following a relaxed morning (there’s no rushing on Rovos!) onboard with breakfast, lunch and plenty of sightseeing, we transferred to Matobo National Park. 

Nestled in the majestic rocky expanse of southern Zimbabwe, Matobo National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2003, is a natural fortress of granite kopjes, wooded valleys and ancient rock paintings that guard the cultural and historical secrets of past civilisations. Upon arrival, we were met by Ian from African Wanderer Safaris, who would be guiding us around the park, which covers 424 square kilometres.

Our first stop was to the silent bushmen's caves and sheltered crevices, which act as canvases for one of the richest collections of rock art in Africa. These ancient galleries provide a window into the lives of the San Bushmen, the original inhabitants of this land. The detailed paintings, some up to 13,000 years old, depict scenes of hunting, dancing and daily life, revealing the deep spiritual relationship the San had with the natural world. 

When we first jumped in Ian’s jeep, he explained that animal sightings are never guaranteed, but we had a sneaky suspicion he had something up his sleeve. And we were right! Matobo National Park has been Ian’s playground for many years, so he knows the landscape like the back of his hand and that means he also knows exactly where to find animals roaming in their natural habitat. As we turned the corner into an open expanse of greenery, a female rhino and her six-month-old calf were grazing on the horizon. Following some rules laid out by Ian, we hopped out of the jeep and very slowly made our way over to the two animals who were calmly seeking out food. Ian explained that there were once 120 rhinos in Matobo National Park, but due to poachers the number had, in recent years, halved. We really were lucky to get so close to such beautiful creatures. 

To end the excursion, we spent some time at Cecil John Rodes's final resting place, high atop a granite hill known as Mailndidzimu or ‘hill of the benevolent spirits.’ The site, which is often referred to as World’s View, boasts a panoramic vista of Zimbabwe’s serene beauty. It felt very special to watch the sunset from this breathtaking vantage point. 

After another relaxed morning onboard, we jumped off the train at 3:00 p.m. to be greeted by Givemore, our guide for the afternoon. I was most excited for today because it had been a lifelong dream of mine to see elephants in their natural habitat. Little did I know that, in just a few hours, my dream would come true and I’d see more elephants than I could ever imagine. 

Much like Ian, Givemore knows Hwange National Park, his stomping ground, inside and out. The park, which is the largest natural reserve in Zimbabwe, stretching over approximately 14,650 square kilometres, is home to many different species. In the first few moments of our game drive, we were amazed to see impalas, steenbok, sable antelope, zebra, a yellow field kite, a giraffe and lots of baboons. 

But it was as we neared the watering hole, that Givemore spotted a herd of elephants slowly making their way towards us. We watched as they followed the matriarch and before we knew it, they were right there in front of us, bathing and drinking in the water. I was mesmerised. Until someone whispered, “Giraffes!” To the left of the watering hole, a tower of six giraffes elegantly made their way over. We marvelled as, one by one, they did the splits in order to drink from the water. It was like a scene from The Lion King. 

When the animals departed, so did we. Heading back to where we had come from, we rounded the corner only to be greeted by a lone male elephant. We watched as he slowly weaved through trees, the sun setting above him. And then, to the right of us, tens of eyes were staring at us through the bushes - the lone male elephant’s herd watching and waiting. We stayed silent, and very still, as the herd crossed the track in front of us, the tiny babies bounding along protected by their parents. As the sky turned a glorious dusky pink colour, I felt very emotional knowing my dream had come true. 

Over the radio, Givemore was notified of a painted dog spotting and so, as we raced across the park to find the other jeeps, the wind whipped through our hair and adrenaline ran through our veins. Sadly, we weren’t quite quick enough to see the dogs but I have it on good authority that they were fascinating to watch. We weren’t disappointed for long, though. Through the low grass, a female lion was closely followed by her three playful three-month-old cubs. As the cubs taunted one another, swiping at each other's tails and running towards one another at speed, their mama kept a close eye on them (and us!). 

To finish off the most perfect day, Givemore drove us to a small campsite where a roaring campfire, cold Savannah’s and the most glorious sunset were waiting. As we reminisced on the past few hours, Givemore joked, “I always live up to my name, I always give more.” And boy, was he right! 

Greeted by song and dance, this morning, we arrived at the incomparable Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. Stepping off Rovos Rail felt bittersweet, I was sad to say goodbye to the friends we’d made, but I was excited to experience Victoria Falls, a destination that had always been on my travel bucket list. 

Our day in Victoria Falls, which was jam-packed, started with a helicopter tour over the extraordinary falls. This colossal waterfall, not the highest, longest or widest, but the world’s largest sheet of falling water, is an awe-inspiring sight of unfathomable grandeur and beauty. And seeing it from above - the full breadth and length of it, visible in a single, sweeping glance - was breathtaking. 

After a quick bite to eat, it was time for us to get up close and personal with the falls. Guided by Cloud, we saw Devil’s Cataract and the Main Falls. At both points, the mighty Zambezi River approaches the edge with deceptive tranquillity before plunging with a deafening roar into the lush gorge below - an unending torrent of liquid energy that sends mist and rainbows spiralling into the sky. The mist, visible from miles away, gives the falls its local name (Mosi-oa-Tunya or ‘The Smoke that Thunders’) and creates an ever-present rain that nourishes a unique rainforest ecosystem. 

We had witnessed the power of the Zambezi River, but now it was time to experience its serenity with a sunset river cruise. Just as soon as we embarked our riverboat, Ra-Ikane, for the two-hour journey, we saw a female elephant with her two babies drinking from the edge of the river. Then, as we rounded the corner, we spotted a bloat of hippos, the tip of their heads just visible above the water. Elsewhere along the way, we witnessed Egyptian geese, a gang of buffalo and even a tiny crocodile, clinging onto a fallen branch. And then the sunset and the water’s surface was like a molten mirror, reflecting hues of crimson and amber, an artist’s palette of sky and water with no clear beginning or end. A symbolic end to an amazing trip. 

Thank you, Wendy Wu Tours and Rovos Rail, for the trip of a lifetime!