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Join ROL Cruise team member Gemma as she sails aboard Scenic Eclipse’s Antarctica In-Depth Expedition Voyage
Published on 14 Feb 2024
The raw, untouched beauty of Antarctica is like nothing else! How did it feel to witness it for the first time?
I can honestly say it felt surreal. I couldn’t believe I was actually there and what I was seeing was real. It’s a very humbling experience and one you don’t expect to affect you as much as it does. During the most scenic helicopter tour I’ve ever done, I was overwhelmed with emotion at seeing the White Continent in a way that not many ever will.
The constant change in weather - from glassy calm to high winds - can impact the course of your voyage. How did it affect your cruise?
We were very lucky with the weather and made great time crossing Drakes Passage which meant we had an extra landing in Antarctica.
All Antarctica cruises plan the itinerary around the weather conditions and the crew and Captain have a solid plan so they can react accordingly. There was only one occasion where the ice conditions prevented us from landing - but our extra landing at the start of our cruise made up for it.
Cruising Antarctica on a smaller ship offers great peace of mind and, travelling on Scenic Eclipse where there are never more than 200 guests in the Polar Regions, means each guest has a morning and afternoon excursion. Even though the afternoon activity couldn’t proceed as planned one day, we still had an amazing experience in the morning, and it offered a great opportunity to relax in the Azure Cafe with a nice hot drink while watching the passing scenery.
You sailed to Charlotte Bay, Half Moon Island and Mikkelsen Harbour, to name just a few. Which was your favourite and why?
I genuinely couldn’t pick a favourite! Prior to cruising to Antarctica, I assumed each port would look the same so I was amazed how different each area is. Some harbours are really sheltered so the sea is like glass, making for incredible photos with mirrored scenery and sparkling icebergs. Then, there were snow-covered mountains which were so soft to walk on and, in stark contrast to other areas, there were dark brown beaches and minimal snow. It really was an adventure and the excursions were designed to suit the environment. Zodiac tours were a great way to explore ice-filled harbours, whilst a hike in the snow was the perfect way to see wildlife up close and feel like a real explorer.
Scenic Eclipse is just as special as the waters she sails - can you tell us about the onboard experience?
Working in the travel industry, I am privileged to experience many cruise ships, but Scenic Eclipse is one of my personal favourites. Her design is very elegant and she looks just like a private yacht which made for some great photos with Antarctica as the backdrop. The size of the ship is perfect as well and offers an intimate cruising experience with plenty of amenities.
One of the first things you notice is just how much space and freedom you have throughout the Discovery Yacht. There are up to 10 dining experiences from Asian fusion to French fine dining and a classic main restaurant, there’s something for all tastes. I was lucky to experience the Chef’s Table which seats just 10 guests and offers 11 courses in a culinary journey.
The crew onboard really do make the experience, though. From the first-class service to the fascinating lectures the expedition team provide each day. You can rest assured in Antarctica, you are in expert hands from the helicopter and submarine pilots to ice and wildlife experts - they really enrich the journey.
I loved ending each day relaxing in the spa which has saunas, steam rooms, thermal loungers and more. I was practising the polar plunge in the plunge pool daily, although I don’t think anything will prepare you for jumping in the Antarctic water! The pool at the back of the spa was a lovely place to warm up and whale watch. I was lucky enough to watch the whales breaching from here.
When sailing the waters of Antarctica, Scenic Eclipse offers many incredible shore excursions, like Zodiac tours, adventures by kayak and paddle board, submarine voyages and helicopter treks. Which would you recommend and why?
As Antarctica is a real once-in-a-lifetime experience, I was keen to experience as much as I could, so my recommendation would be to try everything! The expedition team will decide if the conditions suit a Zodiac tour or guided hike but other activities are optional. I signed up for kayaking and this was a great way to get just that little bit closer to the landscape and view it from a different perspective. I was also lucky enough to enjoy a helicopter tour in the bright sunshine of Antarctica and get up close to the mountainous peaks. The snow looked just like white icing across the vast landscape. From this vantage, the scenery is absolutely breathtaking - we saw a humpback whale from above! One tip the expedition team gave was to simply enjoy the activity you are doing. It’s very easy when you are in a Zodiac looking for whales to let your eye drift to the sound of the helicopter or the passing kayaks but being in this environment is so unique that you want to give it your full attention and take as much in as possible.
You encountered whales, penguins and seals during your cruise. How did it feel to have such personal interactions with these incredible animals?
I’d never seen a whale before so I was hopeful. Antarctica didn’t disappoint. On one of the first days, there were multiple humpback whales swimming by our Zodiac. At first, they are difficult to spot, but once you see the spray of water you soon know what to look for. The expedition team will always keep you updated on wildlife sightings during sailing too. One evening in the theatre, an announcement interrupted the lecture to let everyone know there were killer whales nearby. Everyone rushed out to find a viewing spot, of which there were plenty. Scenic Eclipse has an open bridge policy so you can come by this area anytime. I chose this as my viewing spot which offered the perfect vantage point to see the group of whales and calf! The killer whales were hunting a humpback and as sad as this was to see, it was a reminder that this is a genuine expedition offering real once-in-a-lifetime experiences.
The wildlife was never disturbed by our presence with the seals happily lazing on the snow or ice just raising their head to have a look at you before relaxing back down. The penguins were a joy to see each day with different breeds all going about their day. It was amazing to see mating pairs greet each other and the Gentoos picking up pebbles and taking them back to their partner. I just loved watching them waddle to the sea and then become so majestic as they swam with ease through the water. You are briefed to keep a good distance from the wildlife, but the penguins will gladly make their way to you, so you have to ensure to give them right of way!
What would you recommend packing for a cruise to Antarctica? Was there anything you took that you didn’t need and vice versa?
Scenic Ocean Cruises offer some great advice in advance of what to pack and I didn’t find myself wanting for anything. Scenic Ocean Cruises provide a water and wind-proof 3-in-1 jacket and boots for use on excursions so that’s one less thing to pack. I would recommend taking a pair of warm base layers and two pairs of warm waterproof trousers, then the rest are just layers based on preference. On Zodiac tours, I wore a base layer top and fleece under the Scenic jacket as we were sat still, but on some hiking trips it was too hot and I just needed my base layer and jacket. It all depends on the conditions, and you can pop on deck to check the temperature in the morning to see what would be best for you.
Waterproof warm gloves, thick socks, a neck warmer and a hat are also a must along with sunglasses and sunscreen for those bright Antarctica days. I did take ski goggles with me in case it was windy, but only used these on one day and don’t think they would be a must-pack item.
I went during December, and there were days it was warmer in Antarctica than it was in England - it was Antarctica’s summer, though. The time onboard is less formal than on a normal cruise, so you can dress more casually due to the environment, but it is very much a personal choice. If you like to look smart in the evening, you won’t be out of place, but I would leave the tuxedo and gown at home.
Antarctica wasn’t somewhere I’d ever considered going, but after some encouragement from my husband, I can honestly say it is an experience I will treasure for the rest of my life and I’m so glad I got to see the White Continent with my own eyes.